Vancouver and the Rockies

After a nine hour plane journey from Heathrow, we landed in Vancouver in the middle of the afternoon.  Our flight path took us over Greenland, and the views were stunning.  This trip had barely started, and I found myself thinking of future adventures.

Upon arrival, the immigration process was very smooth.  We needed an electronic travel authorisation prior to travel, and at the airport, used the Primary Inspection Kiosks to scan our passports, take our photo and complete an on-screen declaration before taking a printout to show a CBSA officer.

From here we picked up our rental car and drove to The West End of the city, where we had rented a two bed apartment.  For this holiday, we were joined by my brother-in-law.  The plan was to quickly settle in, and then get an early dinner from a nearby Cactus Club Cafe.  What we didn’t quite factor, was that the kids would fall asleep before we got there.  Nevertheless, we had a decent meal and some cocktails, while the girls slept in our laps.

The problem with this, was that they then woke up at 1.30am, fully rested and hungry.  Short of ideas for entertainment at that time of the morning, we fed them, and sat them down to watch Finding Dory, in anticipation of what we had planned for later that day.

We attempted to take advantage of this unexpected early start and got to Stanley Park for when it opens at 9am.  Inadvertently, we’d picked the day of the Vancouver Marathon.  This meant we couldn’t cycle round the Seawall first, as we had intended, so we went to the Vancouver Aquarium.  I can’t be totally sure if it was the Finding Dory trick, that worked, but our kids were as excited as I’ve ever seen them.

After the Aquarium, we hired bikes from Bayshore Bikes, and my husband towed the kids in a trailer on the back.  We first cycled round The False Creek and the city, stopping for lunch on Granville Island in the indoor public market.  After refuelling, we got back on our bikes, and proceeded to complete the 8.8km Stanley Park Circuit.  For dinner, we ate at AnnaLena, where every dish was clearly constructed with a lot of thought and effort.

The next day, we took the free shuttle from Canada Place to visit the Capilano Suspension Bridge.  With it’s natural beauty, selection of food and drink options, and treetops adventure trail, this attraction is definitely worth a visit for both adults and children.

Tip: Tickets for Capilano, Vancouver Lookout and other attractions can be bought at a discount from the visitors’ centre on Canada Place.

From there, we took the short journey on the 236 Bus from Capilano to Grouse Mountain ($2.85 adult, children under 5y free, exact change or card payment only).  However, the Eye of the Wind attraction was closed, and the thought of paying over $50 per person to ride the cable car didn’t seem worth it to us, so we got the free Grouse Mountain shuttle back to Canada Place.

As we now found ourselves with a little extra time on our hands, we went up the Vancouver Lookout for a 360deg view of the city.  That night, we had dinner at the highly rated Tavola, which styles itself as a ‘family style’ restaurant.

The next day, we took the Trans-Canada Highway 1, then Crowsnest Highway 3, East out of Vancouver to The Rockies.  We’d barely got past the city, and the breathtaking scenery began.  We made our first stop for a picnic lunch along the way at Lightning Lake, in E.C. Manning Provincial Park.  But for a handful of other people and a colony of marmots, the place was deserted, silent and very peaceful.

We continued our journey on through Keremeos, which is apparently famed as Canada’s fruit stall.  However, being early May there was no fruit in season.  Beyond Keremeos, we drove on to the desert town of Osoyoos.  Again, we were a week too early to see the self guided boardwalk at the Osoyoos Desert Centre, so drove up to the Native owned Nk’Mip Winery, for a glass of local Cabernet Sauvignon and a view.  From there, we drove North past a series of lakes and the town of Penticton, to our stop for the night Kelowna.  We stayed in the Royal Private Residence, attached to the Delta Hotel, on the shores of the huge Okanagan Lake .  It was very pricey, and a little dated, but the food and wine in the restaurant were top quality.

We started day five making the most of the hotel gym and swimming pool before a late brunch, while it rained outside.  Relaxed, refreshed and with the kids happy, we hit the road again.  This time another 5hrs (405km) journey to the Emerald Lake Lodge, in Yoho National Park, near Field.

Upon arrival at the resort, you park up in the Overnight Guest Car Park, and call for a shuttle up to the lodge.  As we caught our first glance of the lake, our first reaction was simply,  ‘wow!’  The lake was still frozen and gave off a misty blue glow.  The tranquility of the place was simply amazing.

The lodge itself, is very thoughtfully constructed, and subtly blends in with the natural environment.  There’s a choice of dining options, a bar, cozy fireplaces, a choice of games to play, and even an outdoor hot tub.  The next morning, we walked part way round the lake clockwise, as far as the avalanche chute. The whole circumference is only 5.2km, and looked very doable, even in the ice, and with our children, however we were on a tight schedule so had to head back.

Leaving the Emerald Lake, we entered the final phase of our trip.  Another scenic, 5 hour 30mins, 521km drive through the Rockies, took us to Edmonton, where we spent the last few days attending a family wedding.

This was our second trip to this part of Canada in two years, and on both occasions we were awestruck by what we saw and experienced.  The itineraries for the two trips were completely different, yet we still feel there is more to see and do, and I’m certain, we’ll be back in this part of the world again in the near future.

Marrakech

This was my second trip to Marrakech, ten years after my first.

This time,  I went with my extended family, ranging from my 83 year old grandmother to my three year old daughter.  18 of us in total.  We arrived at Marrakech Menera International Airport in the early hours of Good Friday morning.   On arrival you have to fill out a landing card.

Tip: pick up an extra card, as you have to fill the same card on departure, so you can save time by filling it out before your return journey.

We were picked up by Youseff, who runs a tourist transport company. He was recommended by some friends who know him well.  Youseff and his team were amazing. Very easy to communicate with in English, unbelievably accommodating, provided comfortable vehicles (Youseff himself drives an S-class Mercedes), reasonable price.

Our accommodation was a large eight bedroom Riad, some 21km South from Marrakech, that we found on Airbnb.  There seem to be a number of similar properties available, with varying price and location.

Day 1
On the first day, we had a relaxed start, then ventured to the Medina (medieval walled old town). Cars are only permitted in the Médina until 1pm, so we were dropped off at the main square, Jemaa el-Fna, and left to explore on foot.

Our plan was to go straight for lunch at a cafe with a rooftop terrace, called Nomad, but they didn’t have any space, so we went across another square (Place des Epices) to Cafe Des Epices.  The food was simple, but tasty.  If you can get space on one of these rooftops, it’s a great place to observe the hustle and bustle, in a space of relative serenity.

Later on, we found that three restaurants close to each other; Nomad, Cafe Des Epices, Le Jardin, all have the same owner.  To get to the cafes, we first had to navigate through the Souks.  This is no easy task, as despite having preloaded a cached map on google maps, we soon found that certain ‘roads’ shown on the map were in fact blocked off by unofficial shops, whilst other alleys are not shown at all.  A good sense of direction here is invaluable, as it would be easy to get lost.

After lunch, we took a different route back to look at the Souks more closely.  Here there are probably hundreds of small self contained shops within a maze like network of covered alleyways.  They all sell either spices, leather goods, traditional clothes, shoes, local ceramics, Berber tea sets, designer knockoffs, rugs or jewellery and handicrafts.  My mother and aunt, loved looking at all the stalls, and haggling for cheap deals, but even if you’re not looking for anything in particular, it’s still worth a stroll through the old gullies, if only to see all the beautiful colours.

The time we spent in the Souks, meant we didn’t visit any of the other historic sites of the Medina on this trip.  My husband and I have visited them before, and are worth seeing if you want a break from the repetition of the Souks.

For dinner, we went to Vita Nova, a really nice Italian restaurant, with plenty of vegetarian options, and very reasonably priced.  We then moved on to Azar, for shisha & drinks (whilst my parents kindly watched the kids).  This is a vibrant place, with a live music act and friendly staff, however the shisha (159-190MAD) was a bit harsh, and the service very slow.

Day 2
We headed South, for the Ourika Valley and the Atlas Mountains.  Along the way, we made a quick stop at a Berber Argan Oil outlet.  We were shown how the nuts were ground down to produce the oil, and  given samples of both the edible and cosmetic products. We were then offered the chance to purchase these products at a cost of (100MAD for about 25cl).

We then drove on to the town of Setti-Fatma, which is more or less as far as that road takes you.  From there, we took a gentle 1.5hr hike to the  nearby waterfall.  For my parents, aunt and the kids, it was a bit of a challenge at times, as hiking is not something they have much experience of, but they loved it.  We walked to the second, larger waterfall, where we stopped for tea, before deciding to return back.  It is possible to go beyond this, and see a total of 7 different waterfalls, but we were content with what we’d seen.  The hike itself is not the most picturesque we’ve been on, and nor is the waterfall the most spectacular, however, the family really enjoyed getting out of the city for a bit, and therefore was time well spent for us.

Despite our best efforts, we were 45mins late for dinner at Naranj, but they still kept our table and happily welcomed us.  The menu isn’t extensive but the food was very well presented and tasted nice.  The staff were all really helpful and quick with our requests.  It was a truly lovely experience for dinner at this restaurant.  We then went to Sky Amani after dinner, wanting shisha & drinks, but they didn’t serve both on the same floor.  So, after a round of unpleasant cocktails, we then moved on to Comptoir Darna.  Comptoir Darna was heaving, so we went next door to Arkech, which had a good selection of drinks, shisha and friendly staff.

Day 3

We’d asked Youseff to organise quad biking for us in the morning.  We drove about 30/40mins out to Ouahat Sidi Brahim, to the North of the city.  Following a quick safety talk, we set out on a 1.5hour round trip. Along the way, we stopped twice; once for a photo opp, and then for some Moroccan tea.  Overall, it was quite a tame experience compared to places I’ve quad biked before.  Meanwhile, my husband, took the four kids on a camel ride (they were too young for the quads), but also found this underwhelming compared to previous experiences in the Middle East.

Youseff recommended lunch at the Lebanese owned, Fayrouz.  This isn’t a touristy restaurant.  It is slightly out of the way, but the food was delicious.  A typical menu of hummus, sharwana wraps, falafel, chicken Shish etc, more than satisfied all 18 of us, for about £100 in total.

After lunch, we took time out to make the most of our Riad, and had some quality family time.  Those that braved the pool, had a lot of fun, despite the cold cold water. After that we ordered Dominos pizza, ate, drank and played games.  It was a perfect end, to great family getaway.

 

 

Gujarat

It feels apt that the first Nisaroundtheworld blog post, is of my most recent trip to India.

My husband and I were both born and raised in London, but for us, going to India, feels like ‘going home’.  We have both been to India, countless times since childhood, and am sure we will continue to return indefinitely throughout our lives.  Our families are from the Charotar Patel community, which is essentially a farming community from the villages between the cities of Ahmedabad and Vadodara, in Gujarat, and this region  often becomes a default starting point for more extensive travels for us.

India is vast, and despite my numerous visits, there remain huge swathes of the country I have yet to see.  However, the key purposes of our trip this time, was to maintain our daughters’ connection to our ancestral home.  On this occasion, we were only able to go for one week during the school February half term break, which is nowhere near long enough to be satisfied in India.  Nevertheless, despite the enforced brevity, the girls loved it, and our goal was achieved.

We mainly intended to spend time with family and friends at ‘home’.  Gujarat does not normally feature high on most tourists’ itineraries when they visit India, but I happily discovered, that it actually has a lot to offer for all.

These are some of the highlights:

We spent most of our week in the village of Karamsad drinking chai.  Karamsad itself, has a special place in the history of India’s Independence struggle, as the the birth place of Sardar Vallabhai Patel (One of the leading freedom fighters, and India’s first Home Minister).

We flew into Ahmedabad International Airport.  Despite recent modernisation, the airport is still small, and facilities are basic.  The suitcases are scanned before they come out on the conveyor belt, and this can cause a bit of an annoying delay, especially after a lengthy journey. Gujarat is a ‘dry state’, and therefore has no bars, pubs or nightclubs, however, it is permissible for foreign nationals to bring in their own alcohol for personal consumption. There is a small duty free shop in the baggage hall, but it is expensive; (eg Ferrero Rocher – $15, 1L Jonny Walker Double Black – $50).  Just outside the baggage hall, there is a small foreign exchange and pre paid taxi company.  There is also Gujarat Tourism desk inside the terminal, which has some useful free leaflets, if you don’t already have a preplanned itinerary.  Contrary to some reports I have read on the internet, it was not possible to get an Indian mobile phone sim for tourists at this airport terminal.

Tip: It is worth requesting a landing card to fill in on the plane, to save time at customs.

During our stay, we took a day trip to the mouth of the Narmada River, by the city of Bharuch.  Our plan was to visit two sites in particular: (1) The Dhyani Dham Mandir Ashram in Nikora, a temple, which has been constructed in the geometric configuration of a 3-dimensional Sri Yantra.  This was closed for the few hours we were there so we didn’t actually see it.  Our interest in it lies in the spiritual significance of the Sri Yantra pattern.  There is also another, more famous Sri Yantra temple near the source of the Narmada, at Amarkantak, in the state of  Madhya Pradesh, which we intend to visit in the future.  (2) Kabirvad; A grove of a Banyan tree which has grown over time to occupy an area of almost 3 kms.  It is located on a small river island in the middle of the Narmada River.  It can be reached by boats which operate to and from the Shuklatirth Shiva temple, if there is enough water.  The tree and and island are associated with 15th century mystic-poet-saint Kabir, who is said to have lived here for many years.  We didn’t actually quite make it onto this island either.  Although on the surface, this sounds like a failed excursion, we felt surprisingly satisfied by the end of the day.

Another highlight, was taking the kids to our local Shiva Temple on the night of Mahashivratri.  We kept them up late to be able to get there for the midnight Aarti ceremony.  They were fascinated to see all the worshippers chant vedic hymns, whilst venerating the holy Shivalinga with Panchamrut and bilva leaves, followed by taking a small amount of the intoxicating Bhang drink, as ‘Prasad’.  India is famous for it’s many colourful festivals, and the calendar is full of opportunities for you to take part throughout the year, no matter what part of the country you happen to be visiting.

We spent the last couple of days in Ahmedabad, before flying back to London.  This city has recently gone through significant redevelopment, which compliment it’s ancient history.  From the grounds of the Indian Space Agency (ISRO), the Gandhi Ashram, the Sabarmati Waterfront in the West, to the Medieval Gateways and market places of the old town in the East, there is plenty to see, and worth a stop.

Euro Disney

A short 3 day trip to Euro Disney with my parents  and kids. Staying at the Vienna House Dream Castle was recommended to us. It is close to Euro Disney, and offers a free shuttle to & from the park. Not much to do other than Disneyland Paris & Walt Disney Studios!

Disneyland, Paris, France, 2017Sleeping Beauty Castle